Agathonissi

The small, steep-sided, waterless islet of Agathonissi is too remote to be a popular day-trip target. Intrepid Greeks and Italians form its main tourist clientele, along with yachts attracted by excellent anchorage. Even though the Nissos Kalymnos (and a summer catamaran) appear regularly, schedules mean you should count on staying at least two days.

Despite the lack of springs, the island is greener and more fertile than apparent from the sea; lentic, carob and scrub oak on the heights overlook two arable plains in the west. Fewer than a hundred people live here full time, but they make a go of stock raising or fishing and few dwellings are abandoned or neglected.

Most of the population lives in Megalo Horio hamlet, just visible on the ridge above the harbour hamlet of Agios Georgios and at eye level with tiny Mikro Horio opposite. Except for a small shop and two cafe-restaurants working peak-season nights only in Megalo Horio, all amenities are in the port.

Bays in the east, include tiny Poros fine sand with lentic-tree shade at the back; Tholi in the far southeast, with good snorkeling and some morning shade; and Palli across the same bay, a small but pristine fine-pebble cove.